TimberLessTable

Absolutely great. Called to check if I could order an extra set of joist brackets with the kit before ordering. No problems, just cost $10 more. All materials are of superior quality. With the 20" support tubes, adding a second cross member (around 12" long is enough) at the rear increases stability. If using two sets of brackets, you need to make the long axis 2 x 4 longer to make up for the 2" lost to the additional rear bracket. For my Catrike 559, I needed a 34" length because on Catrikes, the front rollers need to face backwards to protect the steering arms. Also on the 559, the best rear horizontal bar location is just in front of the rear wheel, further back than some other trikes. Now have a sturdy and economical stand on which to wash and maintain my 559. Thank you SOOOO much.

Absolutely great. Called to check if I could order an extra set of joist brackets with the kit before ordering. No problems, just cost $10 more. All materials are of superior quality. With the 20" support tubes, adding a second cross member (around 12" long is enough) at the rear increases stability. If using two sets of brackets, you need to make the long axis 2 x 4 longer to make up for the 2" lost to the additional rear bracket. For my Catrike 559, I needed a 34" length because on Catrikes, the front rollers need to face backwards to protect the steering arms. Also on the 559, the best rear horizontal bar location is just in front of the rear wheel, further back than some other trikes. Now have a sturdy and economical stand on which to wash and maintain my 559. Thank you SOOOO much.

I have a new Catrike Villager and expect to do much, but not all, of the maintenance myself. The first decision was whether to get the 13" or 20" TimberLessTable. I'm 6'3" so setting the stand on a work table would have made it easier to work on the trike. However, I'm 71 and the thought of lifting the awkward trike that high in a few years was a concern so I opted for the 20" model and will place it on the floor. The front of the trike wasn't a problem with the cradles but there isn't any clear area on the main tube of the Villager for the rear cradle. I ended up putting it on the tube going to the rear wheel on the left side. That put the support post approximately inline with the main bike tube but the cradle is about 2" off-center. Moderate pressure on the right rear of the trike caused it to lift out of the cradle at the left front. I solved that problem by putting the included bungee cord at the left front of the table. One other problem that I noted was the long 2x4 was twisting when the trike was placed on the stand. I added a 12" piece of 2x4 perpendicular to the long 2x4 at the tail end. I later noticed that the Carriage House Cycleworks JackStand had a similar addition compared to the TrikeTable. I would recommend that anyone with the 20" TimberlessTable do the same. I would recommend any of the Carriage House Cycleworks work stands for someone doing their own maintenance on a recumbent trike, which one would be a personal decision. It may take a little creative thinking to figure out the best setup for you.

I'm trying to design a adjustable TimberTable to to use with my Jawhorse, as I ride with a local Veterans group, so I'd like to have a adaptable stand that will fit several trikes. I didn't realize I was suggesting a new Product Line when I emailed and asked if I could just buy the hardware kit. Thanks again for accommodating my request for the " Timberless Table" !